History of coats
The origin of coats:
Single-breasted and double-breasted cuts were considered clothing for workers and peasants in the Spanish provinces of the 18th century. The coat caught the attention of other European countries and evolved differently in each country.
End of the 19th century:
The time when women began to replicate men's fashion. The tailored coat was in fashion. Details were everything, often finely hand-sewn. High-quality outerwear had three silhouette options: fitted, trapezoidal and straight. The waist was very small and almost separated the upper and lower halves of the body.
Late 1910s/1920s
The shapeless style of the period is exemplified by the much looser cut of the coat in the late 1910s, in contrast to the earlier "S" corsetry. In the Roaring Twenties, styles of the period included flapper coats and blousons. Real fur collars and cuffs detailing and materials such as velvet coats from the glamorous Jazz Age.
The 1930s
Styles changed dramatically throughout each decade. The 1930s saw the return of the cinched waist, creating an hourglass shape, with the help of shoulder pads, which only became more defined in the 1940s. The femme fatale wore long lines, which followed the natural silhouette, with the intention of emphasizing this silhouette. Coats were lighter so as not to detract from the simplicity of the carefully created lines in the dresses.
The 1940s
After World War II and fabric shortages, coats lost some of the luxurious look of the Jazz Age and developed a military look. There were minimal accents such as pleats, to conserve fabric. Dior reintroduced curves with tighter waists and fuller skirts, as opposed to the sleek wartime look.
The 1950s
The post-war period brought a return to glamour and the re-emergence of haute couture with exaggerated triangular silhouettes and dramatic sleeves, particularly in the swing coat. This style of coat was practical with the baby boom as it doubled as maternity wear. Conversely, a tight bodice and a full embellished skirt were also popular and emphasized the sought-after hourglass shape. The ever-narrowing waist was also emphasized by slimmer lines. Coats were often made of tweed or wool.
The 1960s/1970s
Young individualists changed the fashion scene in the future. This can be seen through experimental coat trends. The 1960s featured tailored coats with fur trim and dramatic details. While a tailored fit was sought after, clean lines, trapeze cuts and flared coats challenged the more fitted styles. A look emerged that introduced sleek leather trench coats. The bohemian style developed further with leather coats, wrap coats, patterns and different colors in the 1970s.
The 1980s
This decade was not short on boldness and modernity with coats! From bright colours and prints to rhinestones and shoulder pads, there was plenty of diversity in style. Coats made a splash with their dramatic oversized cuts, especially in the power suit. Oversized and masculine coats were a key part of women's bold and monochrome looks that exuded confidence and boldness.
The 90s
Sophisticated and oversized styles were popular, continuing the masculine trend. Styles became more relaxed and effortless, yet expressive. Coats played a role in the revival of different styles during the decade. Coats varied in every aspect. From suede, leather and fur to quilted coats, wool blazers and shearling coats. The pieces were sometimes bold, but also, in keeping with the minimal style, were worn in monochrome looks.
Currently
There are many options with coats today. While there are many trends in coats, classic shapes and silhouettes are always present. This season in particular, timeless coats have been revisited with style. For example, cut out details, bold colors, artistic belts, and materials such as sheepskin and vinyl. Today, there is a balance between minimalist styles and bold trends. As well as reinterpretations of past trends, while maintaining a contemporary and modern vibe.
This article was written by Tess RUSSELL.
References:
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLztAHXmlMZFQzxmXfTAFxgbolYcO4uTDD http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-of-fashion-1900-1970/ https://www.lofficielmonaco.com /fashion/a-brief-history-of-coats-everything-you-need-to-know http://recollections.biz/blog/100-years-of-winter-coats/
ht tps : //www.glamour.com/story/how-winter-coats-have-changed-from-the-1920s-to-now https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/what-to- wear/news/g32335/best-fall-winter-coats/